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Fluffy Cat Dives Bonaire
by
Robert Keeney
Copyright © November 1999

Meow......! I am a very fluffy kitty. My master is a dive instructor. I was his first certification. All those fish to chase...yummm... We have many underwater adventures. He brought me along to Bonaire. He wanted to...
  • Research accommodations suitable for his clients' preferences,
  • Research Dive Operators who best match his clients' experience levels and preferences,
  • Research Dive Sites on Bonaire,
  • Become familiar with Bonaire's offerings—food, sights, environment,
  • [I wanted to check out the fish and lobster. And Flamingos in Slagbaai—Washington National Park!]


          Note:This trip was an ABC odyssey—Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao.We flew American Miami to Aruba and stayed five nights at the Sonesta Resort and Casino. We dived with Red Sails Sports.
          Then we flew ALM to Bonaire and stayed three nights at Captain Don's Habitat. We dived with Toucan Divers (due to Hurricane Lenny).
          Then we flew via private charter (not ALM, due to Hurricane Lenny) to Curaçao and stayed three nights at Princess Beach Resort and Casino. We dived with Princess Divers.
          Then back to Miami flying American.
          A positive word about ALM airlines—We wanted to get into Curaçao earlier than booked so re-booked to an earlier flight. ALM's planes were needed in St. Maarten/St. Martin. They canceled our original flight as well as our re-booked flight—and reserved us on a 9am flight (perfect!). Only we didn't get the message until after they left. ALM faxed the changes the previous day, but somehow we never got the message. ALM did their best!
          Upon arrival at the airport, we found a 6–pax plane with one pax about to take off. Everybody, including ALM personnel helped us and our luggage make that plane! We had changed our car return from Habitat to the airport. The car checked in fast. The departure taxes were paid fast. The security at the gate worked with us. Everybody was moving and working as a team! The pilot was happy—he got more revenue for the same trip! We were happy—we got in to Curaçao very early! And maybe even all the wonderful people at the Bonaire airport enjoyed the excitement and challenge of getting us onto that plane, breaking up an otherwise dull day! Especially with a Fluffy Kitty on top of all the luggage and meowing loudly! And we received in short time our $35.78 per person refund from ALM—yes, not all airlines keep your money for unused tickets or provide future use of changed tickets (for a fee, of course). Too bad they no longer are in business!
          Upon arrival in Curaçao, it was raining hard. The pilot called up a minibus with umbrellas, and assisted us through customs there. No rain on this kitty!


Beautiful Bonaire !

Bonaire Map

Captain Don's Habitat

We had heard much about Captain Don's Habitat over the years. We really wanted to check it out for ourselves—we endeavor to dive the operators/destinations we sell. Unfortunately, Hurricane Lenny had just been through and Bonaire suffered from the wind and waves, which took out their dock. All the adjoining resorts lost their docks at this time. Docks did not go right back up because the Bonaire government had changed their building code. At this writing, those docks should be about re-built according to updated Building Code—just in time for Christmas Break 1999.

Habitat has been undergoing refurbishing and some new construction so was fortunate in having a construction crew on site. How an organization handles operations during/after a disaster, tells much about the organization and personnel. Habitat did very well under this pressure! When we arrived, their on-site restaurant was closed. They paid for our round-trip to downtown Kralendijk. We ate in the fine restaurant there—The Rendez-Vous. Captain Don's Habitat personnel were very accommodating during this crisis and we look forward to a future experience with them. I especially enjoyed hunting for anything moving amidst the wind-downed underbrush...and I scored a few times!

Explore the Land and Restaurants

The following morning, a limited breakfast was available. The following mornings complete breakfasts. Habitat has an excellent chef! And he likes cats...especially if they purr loudly. We wanted to try out more restaurants downtown—Mi Poron (native Bonaire cuisine) and Bali (Indonesian cuisine). Had we had one more night, we would have definitely dined at Habitat. Well...next time!

In the aftermath of Hurricane Lenny, there was much misinformation and changing of plans. It was obvious we would not be diving with Habitat. We decided immediately to "jump ship" and rented a car—we had come a long way to dive and check out Bonaire. Driving an air–conditioned car gave us freedom and options. We discovered the Plaza Resort with their own harbor and dive operator, Toucan Divers...a short drive to the other side of town.

They had brought in personnel from other islands. The Harbor Master would not let out boats to dive in visibility of 2-3ft. Toucan Divers set up base on the windward side (now becalmed) and supported shore diving was available! We got in some good dives during our stay. I chased some fish I'd never seen before...but the Dive Master signaled, "No, No...Not allowed...Bad Kitty!"

Habitat was just getting all back together on our off–gassing day. We hope to dive with them next time around...their boats look very fine. We didn't have time to do on–site inspections of other resorts there. We looked around the Plaza. We have sent happy clients there in the past.

Notefrom what we witnessed and learned from other divers, no matter which dive resort you might be interested in, be sure to ask about how many boat dives you will do for sure during each day... and what sites will they be doing—e.g. Klein Bonaire. True!—shore diving is easy, and rewarding, when you have a car. Different resorts have different policies on number of boat trips one can do daily. In order to fully enjoy your expectations, ask before you book and get it guaranteed!

We took an evening drive around the southeast end of the island—many yellow markers denoting spots for shore diving, but very desolate landscape. Also, beware of free-roaming goats and donkeys. Now I am pretty sure where Bonaire's delicious goat roti dish comes from ;-)...meow!

Slagbaai Washington Park The northwest end of Bonaire is far more interesting—hilly, Slagbaai–Washington National Park. We must fully explore this area...and dive sites there.We followed a windy road beginning at the southwest end and discovered landscape reminiscent of fjords. Flamingos...I was ready to chase but it was getting dark on a one–lane road. We decided to pursue this adventure on a future return to Bonaire. With less diving and renting a car, we explored more than we would have otherwise.

Toucan Divers

They were great! They gave us the required orientation briefing and then took us diving shortly thereafter. Toucan Divers is a first-class operation. They are safe, very supportive and were able to adapt immediately to the aftermath of Hurricane Lenny. Their dive boats look very comfortable and we wished they were going out. Moving their operation to the becalmed windward side, they had extra DMs and Instructors on hand to assist all divers. Loads of fresh tanks continuously arrived and those needing assistance getting in and out of the surf oftentimes had two personnel assisting humans and dive kitties.

Shore diving on the windward side can be difficult—I would not like entering/exiting through the normally higher surf! Instead of a shorediver-friendly sandy beach, there are holes to avoid, sharp rocks and about one small spiny sea urchin per square foot.

Booties and open-heel fins are recommended. I did discover a little easier way for myself (I used my full-heel fitted fins which I could not walk in because I'd tear a heel. Beginning in about 9–12 inches of water, I lay down and every time a wave came in, I could pull and float myself forward until I got into deeper water. Same as exiting—used the natural force of the wave to get me very shallow. Still had sore feet but not as bad. Caveat: the sea urchins got through my old BC a little.

The Dive Log—Toucan Divers

Dive 1—11/17—Baby Beach Reef
75fsw for 50min. Shore Dive Reef and Wall. You swim out on the surface to the edge of the wall, swim into the current along the wall, and multilevel back towards shore. Green Moray, Midnight Blue Parrotfish, Golden Spotted Moray, Urchins. Every critter large! But I got along with all of them...they had interesting tales to tell.

Dive 2—11/18—Lac Cai
80fsw for 31min. Shore Dive Wall. Eagle ray and lobster.

Dive 3—11/18—Lac Cai to Suplado
58fsw for 60min. Shore Dive, Drift Dive along Wall. Moray eels peer out of their homes.. A Hawksbill Turtle chased me for awhile. Tarpon were to be observed only. But I could not resist stalking the shrimp. Divers are supposed to log turtles and their condition back at the dive shop. We did! It almost caught me!

Bonaire's Future Diving

Bonaire is a protected, controlled marine underwater national park. Sites have buoys. Sites dived too much are made off-limits for awhile. There are so many sites, the returning diver won't even notice. Annual dive permits help pay for maintenance. Waters are usually very calm and clear. Diving is like diving in a huge, open aquarium. This divers' dream paradise, this excellent environment, with careful caretaking by humans, will continue on forever.

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