Fluffy Cat Dives Cozumel
by
Robert Keeney
Copyright © November 2003

Meow......! I am a very fluffy kitty. My master is a dive instructor. I was his first certification. All those fish to chase...yummm... We have many underwater adventures. He brought me along to Cozumel in 1995. He wanted to...
  • Research accommodations suitable for his clients' preferences,
  • Research Dive Operators who best match his clients' experience levels and preferences,
  • Research Dive Sites on both Cozumel and Yucatan,
  • Become familiar with Cozumel's offerings—food, sights, environment,
  • [I wanted to check out the fish and birds!]
Cozumel Dive Sites Map We flew non-stop Miami to Cancun on Aeromexico— good service. We took a taxi to Playa del Carmen—US$40.00 plus $5.00 tip—US$45.00. For US$8.00 round-trip per person, we took the barco rapido (waterjet) ferry to Cozumel. Then a ~US$3.00 taxi ride (incl. tip—we had luggage) to the Plaza Las Glorias. (NOTE: taxi rides in this zone run 8–12 NewPesos without baggage—nice to let drivers know that you know the going rate—12 can become 10, but tip a peso anyway).

We did fast site inspections of other properties and took a more expensive cab ride (20 pesos) out to the Fiesta Americana (Cozumel Reef Hotel) property. Then we saw La Ceiba (another 20 pesos—and we negotiated 30 pesos for the remaining properties). Casa del Mar Hotel, Hotel Brisas Cozumel (former Costa Club, former Fiesta Inn) and Galapago Inn Hotel. For the experienced diver looking for a good value, the Galapago Inn has beautiful Mexican architecture and ambiance. Shore diving very convenient. Some were night diving. During our stay we walked down a few blocks and checked out the Barracuda Hotel.

We took the plane back on Monday from Cancun. We first rented a car on the mainland side, Playa del Carmen, with drop-off at Cancun airport—better value than a taxi ride! And I could navigate from the dashboard where I had a clear view of all birds. We drove to Tulum, checking out major resorts along the way. Some were hit hard by the hurricane but would be open by mid-December for high season. We had no time to visit Xcaret and Tulum/Xel Ha. Each require a day—good side trips for a non-diving significant other and kids...and cats.

When we dine in other countries we enjoy their cuisine and entertainment. In Cozumel we always chose the Mexican platters offered by the restaurants—sometimes Sopa de Tortillas or Sopa del Lime. ALL very tasty. And I played with many Mexican jumping beans.

Dive Paradise on Cozumel

There are other very good operations on Cozumel. We felt very good about Dive Paradise! We didn't dive with any others. Many operators often have PADI instructors, DM's, etc. but might not have on their dive boats a radio, oxygen, first aid kit, etc.

Dive Paradise was upgrading equipment. They had, and were acquiring new 80's. They know more and more women and teens are diving—some with smaller bodies requiring less air. They are adding 63's to their supply of 50's. For their 2-tank dive, a 63 for the deep and a 50 for the shallow should be quite adequate for most smaller people who don't want the stress associated with moving a large tank around and coming up with more air than needed. Dive Paradise begins their dockside pickup at the Barracuda Hotel. They pick up dockside at other properties along the way to the reefs and walls located to the south of town. They are very safety-oriented. They have luxurious larger boats as well as fast-moving small pangas—fanny-bangers when the waves are up.

Explore the Land and Restaurants

We stayed at Plaza las Glorias Resort. Our room had a sunken living room and balcony overlooking the sea. We had a small refrigerator which would be useful for any fish I might catch as well as my favorite catfood cuisine. My master bought me a container of my favorite dairy beverage, half-and-half. I was on vacation too and had wonderful nutrients. The kitchen staff loved me and provided tidbits of fish, steak, and chicken.

It was a short stroll to town where we dined at several excellent restaurants—all very inexpensive. I had my first lobster—I can't wait to get back to Miami when the lobster season opens!

The Dive Log—Dive Paradise

Dive 1–11/30—Shore Dive off Barracuda Hotel—We arrived just after noon and took a little rest. Originally my master was going to work with his buddy, Marilyn, and complete two of the core dives for her AdvancedOpenWater certification—Navigation and Night. By the time we all hit the water it was getting late. The current was running and he decided to made it a "get-wet" dive—she'd not dived for about 8 weeks.

After winding up down-current about 100 yards from our entrance, we swam up-current about half way to our hotel next door. Then drifted back. They are building an artificial reef out of old pipes, parts of automobiles, tires, and all sorts of junk. We saw some large fish, as well as those feisty little sergeant majors. They are fed by tourists at a nearby restaurant. I almost snagged one...I'm feisty too... We referred to this as our "junkyard" dive. You must be careful swimming through some of this debris. Give it a year or two, and it should become an excellent artificial reef. I saw some huge puffer fish. They look funny. And they told me the same about cats—scuba certified or not.

Dive 2–12/1—Beginning Palancar—Drift Dive—Huge coral heads at edge of wall. I could stalk my prey! Very pleasant drift dive past fantastic coral shapes covered with intricate corals and sponges inhabited by different sizes and types of fish. I was purring until I noticed a large grouper following me. Spectacular!

Dive 3–12/1—Paso del Cedral—Drift Dive—Coral reefs and tunnels. Those are spooky. We all watched the DiveMaster feed groupers and a spotted moray eel.

[see below for DIVEs 4, 5 and 6 on the mainland side]

Dive 7–12/3—Columbia Reef—Drift Dive—Outstanding underwater architecture, flora and fauna—with stalkthroughs...er...swimthroughs. I saw my first turtle—a little guy—and was about to be given a ride. He swam to the surface when our DM surprised it. Sssssss...t!

Dive 8–12/3—Columbia Shallows—Drift Dive—Long line of large coral heads, inhabited by all sorts of fish and many corals. This is where I practiced my buoyancy control. I crouched into a ball and drifted with the current. My long fur was moving with the little surge. Our dive group was about 50 feet away, and their noisy diving style sent many gorgeous fish my way which were curious about this "strange non-threatening fur ball" blowing a stream of tiny bubbles. :-) :-) :-) I was very well-fed earlier and chose to just observe—not snag one...but I could have! Sometimes when my master sees me practicing my buoyancy control, he will fin over and turn me upside down. Most other dives had visibility over 100'. This one had only about 60'—but still outstanding!

NOTE: While the fast little fanny-bangers speed divers to and from sites, there is much to be said about the larger, plusher boats. There is time to socialize and watch the scenery—maybe take in a little sun. I personally like to do some stretches and controlled breathing. And, I like to just sort of space out and soak up Nature's vibrations. And everybody likes to pet me. I miss that when being shaken up like a soda bottle in the confined quarters of a panga—getting a bruised fanny and upsetting divers when I have to claw onto their BCs for support. Meow! I'm just a little kitty which could become fish bait if bounced overboard!

CEDAM on the Yucatan Side—
a Cavern Dive at Puerto Aventuras

Photo by: 
Randall C. Allen–3/1995 (www.searover.com)
 
Ponderosa Cenote

We decided to ride the barco rapido to Playa del Carmen (US$8.00 round trip per person—no charge for cats). We were picked up on the other side by CEDAM Dive Center, located in Puerto Aventuras. Mike Madden has been involved for years in the local cavern diving and assisted in setting the standards for cave/cavern diving. His operation is very safe and by-the-book.

I've heard much about cave and cavern diving. My master has shared with me what he read over the Internet. I have always been curious...goes with my territory of being feline. I was pleasantly surprised that CEDAM has a special tour of the Ponderosa Cavern. This is geared for the open water diver who is not certified for cave/cavern. You are always in sight of the surface, although in an overhead environment. The briefing was excellent. Only 4 divers and one cat follow the guide. Most of the dive is about 30' deep.

Now that I have done this dive, I understand the appeal cave/cavern diving has for so many. Yes...I could become certified. I see well in the dark and like to stalk at night. I have the safe psychological profile. I choose recreational, open water diving. I like to see and chase fish. There were no fish in that cavern. If you have always wanted to try a cave/cavern dive, take a day trip from Cozumel. This is the perfect way to discover for yourself what it is like.

Dive 4–12/2—Pamul—Drift Dive—The terrain is very much similar to Miami's—with better vis. Fairly flat terrain. Waves 1–3's. Dived from a fanny-banger panga. After my master unceremoniously dropped me into the water he performed his backward roll entry. Humans do this...cats always land on their feet. This was not "Soft Scuba." It was too rough for his buddy. Her viewpoint enters into her evaluations—it ain't "Soft Scuba" unless she says it's "Soft Scuba" ;-) ;-) ;-)

Dive 5–12/2—Cedam Caves—Drift Dive—Large sand patches with surrounding coral heads/reef. Some swim throughs. Large lobster! He explored me with his antennae. I communicated through my whiskers. Really nice guy...invited me into his home...but I was too big to get through the doorway. That big breakfast and lunch! Larger fish in addition to juveniles. Vis pretty poor and surge at 40'.

NOTE: Diving Cozumel is on the lee side (less waves). Diving the Yucatan side is on the windward side (more wind and larger waves). For those staying on the mainland side, there are sandy beaches. Fridays CEDAM usually had a large, comfortable boat going for a day of diving on Cozumel reefs and walls.

Dive 6–12/2— Ponderosa Cavern—Cave/Cavern Dive—After the excellent briefing, we drove to the cenote—a beautiful fresh-water sink-hole with mangrove trees. At one time these caves/caverns were above sea level. Now there are underwater stalactites and stalagmites. The humans giant-strided off the platform. I crawled down a mangrove root. We all checked our buoyancy. My master dives lite in salt water—12 lbs of lead. He dropped 2lbs. At 10lbs lead he dived slightly heavy in this fresh-water environment. Good thing, because we descended through the halocline to the warmer salt water. He let all the air from his BC and lowered his lung volume. His buoyancy was just about right. I did just fine with my pony bottle and no lead...we cats are more flexible than humans!

This cave/cavern is huge! One would have to stray on purpose to get near the bottom and kick up silt. There is a permanent set of lines throughout which CEDAM uses for their certification classes. We followed the rule of thirds—one-third air in, one-third air out and one-third air for reserve. My master wishes he'd had a larger, brighter light. Different refraction of light in salt water and fresh water. Look at a diver half below and half above the halocline. From below the halocline, this creates the illusion of a body cut in half. That must be the "cave monster" everybody talks about ;-) ;-) ;-)

Had they allowed the use of a 50 size tank, his buddy would have made this dive. Only 63 and above are allowed—for obvious reasons. They made exceptions for certified kitties using a pony bottle. Another safety rule—if anybody decides to abort the dive, the whole dive is aborted at that point. Cats have no say in the matter!


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