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Fluffy Cat Dives UNEXSO
by
Robert Keeney
Copyright © November 1997

Meow......! I am a very fluffy kitty. My master is a dive instructor. I was his first certification. All those fish to chase...yummm... We have many underwater adventures. He brought me along to UNEXSO. He wanted to...
  • Research accommodations suitable for his clients' preferences,
  • Research Dive Operators who best match his clients' experience levels and preferences,
  • Research Dive Sites on Grand Bahama Island,
  • Become familiar with UNEXSO's offerings—food, sights, environment,
  • [I wanted to check out the fish and lobster.!]

Unsurpassed UNEXSO !

Grand Bahama Map This adventure was really two. My first one was in late July. I almost attacked a shark who came too close during the "Shark Dive"... I hissed at it! The second adventure was in late October. I had a wonderful conversation with dolphins during our "Dolphin Dive". They like to play, too.



Long before I set my four paws on Planet Earth, Robert and Marilyn had visited Grand Bahama Island. At the time Marilyn wasn't yet certified. Robert had yet to become a PADI Instructor. Marilyn told me she snorkeled on the same boat while Robert dived a 65fsw and then a 45fsw reef.

The operator was not UNEXSO. We don't remember their name or even if they are still around. Robert does remember the DMs liked to "horse around" at 65fsw, sneaking up on each other and removing a mask. Sounds like fun...but this kitty would get into big trouble with my owners. Even though not yet certified, they asked Marilyn if she wanted to dive anyway. There was no dive plan. There was no addressing buddying-up. They almost lost a buddy pair. The rental equipment was very poorly maintained.

That was then! Today's standards are much higher, safer and more widely practiced. One of the best operations we have ever dived is UNEXSO. Robert and Marilyn really wish they'd known about them in 1992! [The resort had recommended the one they used at the time.]



7/31, Thursday, Getting there and our Resort

Oh so EZ! Fly out of Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, on Laker Airlines Flight #1, at 9:00am and land about 20 minutes later in Freeport, Grand Bahama Island. Exchange one of the transfers for ride to the Princess Country Club, right across the street from their Princess Tower Resort and Casino. Cats are not allowed near the roulette tables...that little ball is just too tempting! And watching the slot machines spin round is simply too frustrating! Fast check-in. They even provided a basket and blanket for me. Call UNEXSO! At 1:00pm Timmy would be by the East Lobby for free transportation to UNEXSO's 2:00pm dive.

The pool at the Country Club was struck by lightening about 5:00am the week before we arrived. Nobody was in the pool at that hour so this news item did not make it to the international press. While they are rebuilding the pool, guests who don't care to walk several blocks across the street to the other pool may ride the shuttle.

The Princess properties are situated within a very short walk from the International Mall. There there are hundreds of places to shop and eat. For non-diving significant others, this is a definite amenity.

UNEXSO—Underwater Explorers Society

For over 35 years UNEXSO has been the leader in providing safe, enjoyable dive adventures. Their approach has always been very conservative. Today's equipment is much better. Diver training is more uniform. With these improvements in equipment and education, UNEXSO has recently begun conservatively accommodating the more experienced diver on the same boat with the lesser experienced. E.g. on a medium deep dive (to 60fsw), they let the buddy teams in first. needing more help they then helped the group into the water who would follow the dive leader. Site briefings geared also for the buddy pairs are minimal at this time. T will include more content in the near future.

Upon arriving at the shop, you show your vouchers and C-card. It would be advisable to bring along your log book. They take all pertinent info. and enter it into their computer. You sign the standard release form and rent any gear you might need. Fortunately I carry all my own gear...I hope some day UNEXSO will provide suitable gear for us Dive Kitties.

They provide a complimentary pool-orientation if you choose to participate. It is recommended if you have not dived for six months—just to check out mask clearing, regulator recovery and buoyancy skills. This is no longer mandatory.

Before diving the 100fsw deep Theo's Wreck, UNEXSO requires you dive a shallower, open water dive with them first. Speaking with an instructor, being certified AOW, or equivalent, perhaps showing your log book and having dived recently, this requitement may be waived at the instructor's discretion.

Dolphin Experience Their Dolphin Dive is extremely popular. Those wishing to share this unsurpassed adventure should commit well in advance. We considered signing up for October when we planned to return.

UNEXSO maintains a fleet of dive boats. They better service various levels of diver experience—OW classes, newly-certified, advanced levels of experience/certifications, and certified cavern/cave. The staff is very safety-oriented, intelligent, gracious and accommodating. They cross-train, and always have on hand high level(s) of expertise. Divers enjoy a safe, educational, fun, underwater adventure. Your captain on one trip might be the guide or on-board assistant the next trip. Maybe the shark feeder on the Shark Dive.

We had only limited time to see as much as possible. We didn't have a chance to explore any of the shallow reef sites there. We visited the medium and deep ones. Next time, we will make time to explore these other beautiful areas.

The trips to the sites are about 15 minutes duration. These are 1-tank dives. However, sometimes, depending upon demand, 2-tank trips can be arranged. UNEXSO consistently maintains the highest safety standards and match diver desires/experience levels to the most appropriate sites. At the same time they provide the greatest possibility for diversity. This intelligent, sensitive flexibility makes UNEXSO a leader in the dive industry!

7/31, Thursday, East Ann's Paradise Dive—56fsw, 80+ ft. visibility

Note: Today, Marilyn, a Travel Professional, did site inspections of various properties—she likes to see them before she sells them. Working with her, Robert should also see these. However, they do their best to dive the operators/sites they recommend. He dived today without his preferred buddy. What am I...chopped tuna...?

Dive leader, Tamora, gave an excellent site briefing. There were two types entering the water—those diving with a buddy and those diving in a group. It was obvious, being near the end of the week, these divers were beginning to wind up their week of diving. They had established great inter-personal relationships. Without Marilyn as his buddy Robert did not wish to be in front of the group or follow their turbulence. He proposed to Tamora an alternative which might work. After she entered the water, Robert would then enter and descend the line. Watch the reef critters nearby. When the group had gathered, stay well within visual contact and explore the coral heads nearby as we all headed over and back from a sunken yacht. This was great for me...I had time to stalk a few of the many fish swimming amongst the coral. When we arrived at the wreck there was a large, brown grouper playing peek-a-boo with a photog. I resisted the temptation to chase it.

These coral heads are gorgeous. They have space underneath almost large enough for a swim-through. Just the right size for me...I enjoyed many swim-throughs and explored areas humans cannot reach! Between the coral heads there are areas of flat sandy bottom where I saw goatfish barbelling along, tangs, parrot fish, hogfish, stingray and gazillions of multi-colored juveniles...just the right size for chasing. I got my first ride on a stingray! It was too short a time! Next time I'll keep my claws retracted and grip only with my paws.

On the way back to the ascent/descent line, we were about 200 feet from it following the group back. Then, Robert saw bubbles in the opposite direction. He set his compass bearing, and finned over to hang out a distance from a photog. buddy team. As we were heading back to the line, we met Tamora, who hustled us back to the line.

We'd already cleared our more conservative ascent with dive crew and ascended about 10 ft. per min, with a 3 min. safety stop at 30fsw and about 4 min. at 15fsw.

After boarding, Tamora took Robert aside and correctly informed him he'd wandered out of her sight. Oops!—he got nailed again. He had lots of air, is totally comfortable underwater, monitors his gauges, compass and his own physical/emotional status. Feeling so totally in control, he forgets many times he has a responsibility to dive leaders to let them know what he's doing. They are not psychic! If the situation were reversed, he would feel the same way. Maybe getting nailed a few more times by responsible dive leaders will finally encourage him to break this very bad, unsafe, ingrained habit. Commendable, however, is the fact that even though Tamora knows the cert. level/experience level of all divers on the boat, Robert's having advanced levels in both did not exempt him from respecting her control—blush—No! she did not chew him out or embarrass him. She said something to the effect everything worked great until the end when he wandered out of her sight.

Note: From my observation, it would appear that UNEXSO's training program for staff, in addition to topics necessary for divers' fun, safety and education, also includes a course in tact and diplomacy, how to interface positively and most effectively with a great range of personalities enjoying their services.

8/1, Friday, Theo's Wreck Dive—102fsw, 100+ ft. visibility

Tom gave us a thorough site briefing, He covered every phase of the dive plan, including resisting the temptation to wander 50 feet from the stern to gaze down the Continental Shelf. Then he led us down the float line to gather at the bottom. I love these rope float lines. With my four sets of extended claws, I can out scamper any human descending these lines. They always let me in first and I have more time to chase fish while the humans poke along... The current was not very strong and the visibility excellent. We finned a short distance over to a cabin cruiser recently sunk (7/97) named "Splash"—a rather appropriate name, given its present circumstances. Sort of eerie sitting upright and still fresh at 100fsw!

We spotted a small octopus scurrying along the side of the Theo...he must have noticed me stalking him...and several large grouper. Not too much growth on the Theo. Some light penetration into the cargo hold and engine room. We didn't see the rumored big green moray. Marilyn spotted a large barracuda! I hid behind Robert!

8/1, Friday, SPID City Dive—62fsw, 50–80+ ft. visibility

Self-contained, Portable, Inflatable Dwelling—site of underwater living experiments in the late 1970s. Marilyn and Robert decided to explore on our own as a buddy team. The extent of the briefing was that spur and groove reef structure was toward the south and that coral heads were toward the north. And that if we felt we were lost, we probably were. If so, surface, and find the boat.

As we headed south and southwest, Marilyn decided to go a little deeper and swim within these canyon walls. Robert and I followed along the tops, noting most of the life was on top of the ridges. She did lightly touch a fin several times against the wall, but didn't really hurt anything. She was aware of having done this, and has developed more awareness and better control as a result. When she hit 64fsw near the top of the ridge (Robert hit 62fsw), we all went up a little higher and headed 90-deg. to the west, swimming perpendicular to the ridges. We saw a school of Atlantic spadefish, French and Queen angelfish, small school of adult African pompano, shark, large grouper, parrotfish, schools of juveniles and teenagers. Fascinating terrain! They must never have seem a dive kitty before...they kept coming over an looking me over. Hey...you want a piece of me...the feeling is mutual...Meeoorrr!

After awhile it felt about time to change course again 90-deg. and head back north and northeast. It got shallower and the spur and groove terrain was replaced by a sandy bottom with coral heads popping up. Well, we were still somewhat lost! Then we spotted lots of bubbles and discovered the group heading back toward where we believed the boat was moored. OK, let's set a compass heading and explore some more. Eventually we wound up where we later discovered they do the shark feeding. We watched a photog. buddy team feed the groupers. I could only watch...these guys were big...and a gang.

Then, we finned 3 minutes at 30fsw and slowly came up to 15fsw for about 4 min. Well—we were lost again! Upon surfacing, we found ourselves not too far up current of the boat. Taking a compass bearing, Robert asked Marilyn if she wanted to explore more on our way back to the boat. We decided to surface swim it. While the current wasn't strong at all, we DID manage to surface up current of the boat—so we were only half-lost? And we might have made brownie points for being amongst the first back on board instead of being our usual last.

Shark Dive 8/1, Friday, Shark Dive at Shark Junction—47fsw, 80+ ft. visibility

Before we headed out to this exciting adventure, our briefing took place in UNEXSO's Photo-Video Center. Following is UNEXSO's all-star cast and crew—

Feeder: Chikako!
SafetyOne: Christine
SafetyTwo: Tom
Captain: Tony
Videographer: Susan
Following members of Neptune Performing Arts Association (NPAA) are the superstars, supporting roles and chorus (not necessarily in order of appearance)—
Superstars:
          Male and female Caribbean Reef Sharks
Supporting roles:
          Black Grouper and relatives
          Nurse Shark
          Small school of adult African Pompano
          Southern Sting Rays
Chorus:
          Yellow Tails
Program Note: Green Moray Eel is on well-deserved holiday. As a production in cooperation with UNEXSO and NPAA, you the audience are invited to take pictures. However, leave your beepers on the boat.

We were briefed on what to expect. We signed releases. We were given several opportunities to change our minds. We left the theatre. Both Feeder and Videographer were clad in full chainmail suits weighing 25lbs. each, consisting of over 400,000 rings each and costing over $9,000 each. SafetyOne and SafetyTwo were clad in chainmail over torso and hip areas, with helmets reminiscent of Darth Vader and sticks reminiscent of light sabers. This promises to be a very electrifying performance!

Upon arrival, we all descended as a group and swam over to the audience area where we formed a tight line with our backs to an old deco chamber. This would help stop the performers from wandering behind the audience. SafetyOne/SafetyTwo were incredibly good ushers.

We were to hold our pressure gauges in front of us with faces visible from above. This theatrical experience can turn anybody into a heavy breather. If one's air gets too low, he/she will be escorted safely back to the boat. Another reason to hold the console in front is to bang a shark on the nose if he/she gets too close—well, some never use their console anyway... My console is small...but I have 20 retractable lethal claws and very sharp teeth for tearing apart my fish dinners! And I make a terrible threatening growl...and my hisses can be ear-splitting. Those guys better not bother me!

This is a very unique presentation! No matter whether you have been caged with Great Whites cruising about, watched a feeding frenzy on a "chumsicle" or observed a shark feeding, UNEXSO takes this event to a whole new educational dimension. They have introduced the concept of "conditioning"—similar to, but not the same as the "training" and giving rewards for intelligent learned behavior by porpoises and sea lions. This "conditioning" involves petting, holding, stroking, handling and feeding the shark(s).

Chikako did an excellent job working WITH these sharks. She stopped them by caressing near the top of the shark's head. Petting them close to an eye, we would watch the shark slowly close and open its eyelid. Stroking and petting the top of the head back to the dorsal fin, she picked one up and stood it on its nose. This is no mean feat for a shark whose respiration depends upon water movement through its gills—in effect the shark is holding its breath. Then, she would calm them down, back off 10+ feet and produce the reward. Then the shark would swim to get it. Totally fascinating! But, do NOT try this at home, folks. Leave this to those trained and who wear full chainmail suits.

We arrived back at the dock. We spent $35 for the video of our experience. This video has sound, and is very intelligently and artistically taped—worth far more for its beauty, choreography, artistic and educational value.

Additional Discoveries

The air temperature was near 90-deg. F. in the shade. We had to drink extra water in order to remain hydrated. We increased our salt intake when we could no longer taste it in perspiration which ran down our faces. Our systems felt incredibly balanced afterwards—all the perspiration had cleaned out most of the poisons in our system accumulated from sitting in front of a computer.

We do not drink and dive, but yes we like a little bit of good liquor occasionally. Imagine our surprise when we discovered there is no limit to how much liquor produced in the Bahamas can be brought back to the USA for personal consumption. Most popular brands available in the USA are priced nearly equal and not worth the effort. However, Campari is $11.95 per liter. We also love Nassau Royale. With our 2 extra carry-on boxes of 4 liters each, everybody wanted to come to our party!

UNEXSO Restaurant The Brass Helmet Restaurant at UNEXSO serves a beautiful Bahamian dish called Fish Soup—spicy, full meal, including Johnnycake. This is a traditional Bahamian Breakfast which will easily take you through the day—packed full of nutrients in a good combination. The staff were very nice to me and gave me all I could eat. I purred my appreciation...

The Las Vegas style show at the Princess Casino is well-worth experiencing. We always enjoy topless performances when done in an artistic manner. This show had some beautiful young physiques included in several of the numbers. The comedian was fairly clean with some very good, thought-provoking material. He also finished his act with some excellent juggling involving black light and syncopated music—well done! We also enjoyed their use of a rain curtain, smoke effects, and good lighting. Great impersonation of James Brown doing "I Feel Good!" However, by far the best, to our taste, was a very well performed pas de deux, in Vegas type costume, performed by a couple with obviously many years of ballet training. This high-energy show is well-rehearsed, with precision unison and each number dovetailing into the next.

With the exception of one very weak "Bahama Mama" drink Thursday early-evening at a beach bonfire party with a tasty outdoor buffet, we'd been drinking ice tea and other non-alcoholic liquids. Friday night, after all diving was completed and fairly well into our 24-hour off gassing period before flying, we dined upscale at the Lucaya Golf & Country Club. We enjoyed very well-prepared, flavorful, attractive gourmet cuisine, several dishes being flamed at our table. Nursing a "Yellowbird" made just right, we really enjoyed the view—shades and textures of green, bursts of reds and oranges from flowering foliage, the setting sun and a magnificent sky. This structure was obviously designed and oriented to take full advantage of the surrounding natural and landscaped setting. Manmade and Nature perfectly complementing and enhancing each other, creating a more intense feeling of harmony between Man and Nature. An unobtrusive, fine jazz ensemble played oldies and goodies from the 1940s, as well as some of the standards. A well-sized/positioned dance floor for those who do. Entrées begin about $20; the average is about $25. A most excellent dining experience topping off a wonderful adventure.



Last time we dived with UNEXSO was earlier this year, 1997, during July/August. We were so impressed with their quality service and Grand Bahamas' magnificent underwater fantasies we must return. This time we were more selective in choice of sites. For your complete description of all UNEXSO sites...
Fin over now!—UNEXSO's Unsurpassed Dive Adventure Sites! [a new browser window will open]

Blue Holes

Grand Bahama Island has the longest mapped cave system in the world. [Yes, Mike Madden (CEDAM) is currently mapping the Nohoch Nah Chich Cave System under Yucatan which is believed to be the longest unmapped one in the world.] The Grand Bahama Island one is connected to the sea via many tunnels and fissures. Depending upon tidal movement, these blue holes either "suck" or "blow"—water moving in or out.

We wanted to visit a blue hole! We chose, instead of the boat with the scheduled reef, the boat with the "Captain's Choice".

10/22, Wednesday, West Ann's Paradise Dive—60fsw, 80+ ft. visibility

Note: Today, Marilyn had to coordinate one of her meetings—she's a Meeting Planner. She had to do the same the following day. She only got in five dives to Robert's and my eight—so Robert dived three times without his preferred buddy. Mreeoow???

We dived as a group and saw various juveniles as well as colorful variety of coral. Surge channels dominated the terrain. We looked down these canyon walls. We saw myriads of color in a great variety of textures. What an abundance of sealife from tiny to grand. A long parade of some sort of jack passed by during our safety stop. I was "good"...but it was tempting...

10/22, Wednesday, Arrow Point Reef, Night Dive, Blue Hole—61fsw, 50+ ft. visibility

Marilyn joined in on this one. After being briefed thoroughly by Jason, we gathered on the bottom. We all checked out OK. We began our mysterious adventure. Of particular note, we didn't use any lights or cysticks to mark each diver. [Whenever there is possibility of buddy separation, OR when Robert and Marilyn like to be "cozy", they fin along with arms linked—I ride along on top. This was one of those times.] Toward the end of the dive, we turned out all lights and let our eyes get used to the darkness. Then we followed Jason for 5+ minutes. They were amazed how much we saw underwater without dive lights. I don't require a light at night...a benefit of being feline.

We fed those little freeswimming worms to basket stars by shining dive lights on the basket star. We observed sleeping parrot fish...Man! some just lie there on their sides, shaping themselves to the contour of the reef...what easy prey for a feline night stalker! We visited a horizontal blue hole. A baby spotted moray eel nearby looked me over. Beautiful spiney lobsters were foraging along the corals. A large hermit crab lives in a conch shell. We finned across deep canyons .

10/23, Thursday, Plate Reef, Blue Hole—82fsw, 100+ ft. visibility

One area has surge channels and coral heads intermingled with sandy patches. Another is rather flat. We visited a vertical, almost circular blue hole with about 3–4 foot diameter. It just kept going down. During our briefing, we were told NOT to venture into it because we might not be found for 2000 years. "Hey, one could become a part of history." "Yeah! Jurassic Park, Year 4000!" I remained far away...I like it just where I am now.

10/23, Thursday, Ann's Paradise—62fsw, 80+ ft. visibility

Last trip we dived East Ann's Paradise. Yesterday, we tried to dive Ann's Paradise but another boat was already moored there. Well—"the third's the charm"!

We read the plaque mounted on one of the coral heads commemorating Ann, a school teacher. She loved to dive this particular area with UNEXSO. It is a beautiful area with great variety of colorful sea creatures. During our ascent we saw several small barracuda later joined by another. We enjoy watching them holding their tight formation while watching us. If it wasn't time to surface...I would stalk you guys...

10/23, Thursday, Arrow Point Reef, Blue Hole—70fsw, 80+ ft. visibility

Last night, this hole was "blowing"—today it was "sucking". It is located NNW of mooring anchor. Another beautiful reef! Could not find our little spotted moray eel. We saw again that little sea fan in front of this horizontal hole which bends with the direction of the current—in or out from the hole. I could not risk disappearing forever so resisted the challenge of playing with that sea fan.

Dolphin Experience 10/24, Friday, Dolphin Dive—47fsw, 80 ft. visibility

We were fortunate we had requested space early enough to reserve two spots for this dive. They let me go along because I jumped up onto the reservation desk, purred loudly, rubbed against the reservationist and looked as "cute" as I could...still being a fairly young kittie. We set up our gear and motored over to the dolphin pens where we were given a thorough briefing on what to do and not do during the dolphin interaction. I must be on my best behavior...I'll make up for it on the reef.

When would pet the dolphins. We must be very careful of our fingernails. This could easily hurt the dolphin's delicate skin. Also, dolphins are very sensitive around their eyes and blowhole. Avoid these areas.

Also we were briefed on the five interactive skills we would practice with the dolphins—

  • Pet
  • Kiss
  • Feed
  • Recieve and send small hoop
  • Rostrum Push
Before departing on this adventure, I stopped by one of the pens and just looked at a dolphin looking back. That is a "no-no"—they get confused if you don't feed them. Then we headed out to the dive site and two dolphins followed or lead the way.

On the way out, Robert felt he could enhance his experience with both the "kiss" and the "rostrum push" by having good breath and buoyancy control. The dolphin will swim up to him and place its "nose" on his cheek, chin or lips. The signal to end is when he replaces his regulator. So—hyperventilate a little before the event, and make it last longer.

The "rostrum push" requires Robert to hover off the bottom, which can be difficult if overweighted (all participants are overweighted 2–4 lbs. so kneeling on the sand is easier). Beforehand, Robert tested his buoyancy with a good inhalation. If he was not buoyant, then he'd add a smidge of air into the BC. When his turn came for the "rostrum push" he rose a foot or two vertically off the bottom, extended his arm with palm facing the dolphin. The dolphin then turned him around in circles. I'm too small to participate...but it was fun watching.

During the Rostrum Push, I was amazed at the power of a dolphin. Robert was gently pushed in a circle as they got the "feel" of each other. Suddenly he felt a tremendous, powerful acceleration. It reminded me of a well-tuned Corvette, setting a drag strip record.

Some of these bottle-nosed dolphins were born in captivity. They require at least a year of training effort before they become adept at working with a trainer and divers. Some of their romantic mystique ("Flipper Syndrome") was re-defined. Dolphins, like sharks, dogs, and other trainable/conditionable animals, are motivated by reward of food. Dolphin intelligence, while somewhat similar to the human species, is completely alien. It will take centuries of research to begin fathoming their unique world. WHY do they enjoy doing what they do? A mystery. We cannot assume their reasons (or instinct) is similar to the human (or feline) species. I do wonder, however, if they understand us, or care to. Rather, perhaps we fit within their concept of a pleasant, curious diversion. And we DO provide good cuisine for their enjoyment. They explained only they are free to leave whenever they want. UNEXSO does not keep them prisoner. They told me I was the first dive kitty they ever encountered...they were curious about my fur.

This is another excellent educational, enlightening experience UNEXSO provides. We feel increased understanding of Nature and how our species is included. If you seek greater awareness, your dolphin dive will provide much to ponder. There are some things one cannot talk about, read about, hear about. These things personally must be experienced to become more aware. The dolphin dive is a wonderful opportunity to stimulate your personal growth.

10/24, Friday, Papa Doc Wreck and Angels' Camp—48fsw, 100 ft. visibility

The Dolphin Dive takes a long time, and we missed the 10:30 mid-morning dive. So, we who were scheduled for that time slot had Captain's Choice. We left at 11:30. UNEXSO is very accommodating!

We moored near the Papa Doc wreck. We missed it while swimming due west towards Angels' Camp We enjoyed an incredible landscape of sand and coral heads. They looked like trees with a thick trunks and foliage spreading out like a "spreading chestnut tree". All sorts of wonderful colorful critters intermingled with various shapes, sizes and types of coral. I played peek-a-boo with Robert and Marilyn.

Heading generally about 100 feet due south we explored more. Then headed due east and the soon Papa Doc loomed before us. Our return was a little faster because of a slight current heading east. We saw a large grouper who played hide and seek with us, and a huge Queen Triggerfish. I had a lot of fun playing with these new playmates. The wreck is upright and is still fairly intact. Many fish use it and surrounding coral heads as shelter. I stalked a few...just to keep in practice...

10/24, Friday, Rose Gardens, Blue Hole—52fsw, 80 ft. visibility

Not covered in the briefing...we discovered another blue hole—right beside another mooring line. We recognized it immediately for what it was. It was vertical and about 2 feet in diameter. It was "blowing" and there were fish darting around inside. I cautiously entered about a foot and looked around...just curious... Greater abundance of fish and coral amongst fairly wide and shallow valleys and ridges. We gently played with an arrow crab (the "Daddy Longlegs" of the reef) before putting it back where our DM found it.

During the previous two days diving we experienced almost flat seas. Today, the waves were beginning to build and by the end of this third dive, the seas were running 2–4 feet. But vis at 50 feet remained excellent. They laid a beach towel over the side for me to climb aboard. Additional Discoveries

Our diving was over for this trip, we decided to rest up and eat a light supper. Incredibly good excellent conch chowder, rolls and good Bahama Mamas via room service. About 10pm we decided to go out, dance and have a few more Bahama Mamas. Wow! Friday night hops at the outdoor bar at the Princess Country Club! Reggae, soca, slowdance, and line dance. Macarena is alive and well on Grand Bahama Island. As is Electric Slide.

It was great waking up the next morning without our 5:45am wake-up call for a 7:15 pickup to UNEXSO! We struck a deal with a local concession for a half-day car rental, checked out at 10am and explored the east end of the island as far as we could go—about 60 miles. We encountered miles of pristine Nature and very friendly Bahamians. They all smiled at me, "Ya-mon...nice kitty..." The main road runs close to the south shore and we took a few side roads over to the beaches. In one small town (High Rock), built on the highest ground overlooking the sea, there is one of the most beautiful churches we've encountered. It has an abundance of windows, all openable, letting in the sea breeze. What a wonderful environment to practice one's religious beliefs and faith!

Grand Bahama Highway—THE road from east to west! Saturday morning. Hardly a car in sight. Hmmm....what is going on? Cars parked half on the highway—lot's of people? Accident? NOPE! Appears a track meet with various teams competing and practicing. Ahhhhh.....purrrr...lot's of fresh air, hardly any traffic. Whatever traffic might pass is easy-going Bahamian. Nice long stretch of road well marked. What better use for a "highway" early Saturday morning!

We scored a little 2-seater convertible with enough trunk space to accommodate all our luggage. I found a great area to stretch out. After several hours Robert's and Marilyn's faces were beginning to get a little too much sun. Humans need more fur on their faces. We wound up back in Pt. Lucaya close to UNEXSO. We enjoyed a late lunch at the little Danish restaurant right on the water—Pelican Bay??? I enjoyed sharing Robert's great grouper burger. Marilyn had a selection of cheese and fish. We all enjoyed our first Kalik Extra Gold, a very smooth, full-bodied beer. We shall look for more in the States. We had just enough time to explore more on our way back to Freeport. We must use our airport transfers by 4pm to catch our plane. We rediscovered where our favorite duty-free liquor store was and brought back four litres of good stuff. [With 2 dive bags and a large suitcase, we only had room to carry a 4-pack. Next time, we plan to purchase a small wheelbarrow.]

We have a question regarding the road system. Just east of Freeport, over the canal bridge, on the way to the east end, we discovered a 4-lane, divided super highway in excellent condition. It went nowhere. It was blocked off. Furthermore, there were 2-lane roads with stop signs and an almost-washed away center line. These roads appear not to have been traveled for some years. There was no sign of civilization. We didn't have time to follow every road. We would have had to unpack our dive compases in order NOT to get lost while traveling in circles. This is a mystery to us. Anybody know what this is all about?


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